Philippines Travel Tales, Subic Bay, Samar, Apo Island, Cebu, Single Adventure Tours 2002 - part 6

Apo island - the accident-

One evening after the diving Jenny wanted me to go swimm with her. Why not, finally she had spend most of the day alone while her honey was diving. So we went of to the water. Immediately we started the teasing and played around some rocks in the shallow water. I did not realize, that the low tide emerge some very dangorous rocks with very sharp shells in it. It seems that they grow into the rocks until a small edge only stand out. The next wave was mine and pushed me on this sharp shells-rock. After just a second I saw the skin of my knee hanging down in scraps. Luckily the two deepest cuts could not damage a bigger container, but looked very very bad. I was far away from every hospital at the end of a day and had not brought any bandage to this island. The blood spilled around that everybody thougt I had became a victim of a shark attack.

The manager of the resort was helping me first. She gave me some ointment to prevent an infection, but she had not any thing like a band-aid. Later that evening two of the frenchman asked me, if the wound would be needed to stitch. I did not know where I could find a doctor on that remote island. So I was asked if I would be a diver and I answered that I had been diving since almost ten years. This made them feeling something like sympathy with me or my situation. After I had said that, I had got more than a professional medical care as I would expected to get in any hospital. The two frenshmen brought a big case full of professional medical equipment, medicine and disinfetant as well. Together we shaved the hairs around the wound and put the fu*king burning disinfetant on it. They gave me the most loving bandage that I have ever seen. The only bad thing was that this accident would be the end of my diving activities for this trip. So I decided to leave the island with the direction to Cebu on the next morning. If I would get an infection it would be much better to stay in Cebu City. I brought not much cash to the island, because I knew that they will accept my visa card. The procedre was very bothering as she toke my card to the village trying to call a bank to check if my card would work or not. In the end she wanted that the helpful Ronel would escort me to Dumaguete to find an ATM to pay my bill. She told me that I have to pay P100,- as an additional share for the food for Ronel. I agreed to this cheap payment for all the help that Ronel would give me for. We took the boot of Ronels older brother to Negros and found us back in a thunderstorm on the way over the rough sea some minutes later. At the arrival on the island of Negros we were totally soaked and had to change our clothes. We took a bus to Dumaguete where we met the same trike-driver again, who had drove us before. The ATM was easily found and what for a luck the net worked perfectly. I was really surprised about this fact. In general I can say that the ATMs in Manila are terrible whereas I have never had any problem to withdrawl some money in Cebu City. I paid my bill and said thank you to one of the most honest and friendliest guides I had ever meet in the Philippines. He never had asked me for any tip even he was always engaged to help me in every thing like carring heavy lugguage or explaining something. This was truly the first Filipino who was not interested in making some cash, but in showing me his beautiful island. What for a person of character. Thanks again for all your help Ronel, I will visit you soon again. All ways from Dumagguete are going to Cebu. The most comfortable way is to take a Super Ferry via Tagbilaran (Bohol) to Cebu City, but I wanted to take the direct way from Amlan to Santander with a small and cheap Banker. This boat trip will cost you around P50,- and thirty minutes of your time. Near Santander, where the boat will berth, I can recommend to take one of the many waiting Vans going to Cebu for P100,-. Our trip was a little bit strenuous because our Van was packed over and over with people, but the view of the sea was always great.

We arrived in Cebu City southern bus terminal very exhausted and thirsty. Many fast-foods and some boothes of more or less cookery are situated around the bus terminal. As we passed by on the first booth I saw some Filipinos sitting around a table with many big bottles of San Miguel beer on it. I could not withstand a cold beer, so we went in even it seems to be a place where workers used to relaxing after they had finished thier work. The staff of this corrugated iron cottage looked very surprised at their foreign guest, but we were treated very friendly. I ordered some fried chicken and of course a big bottle of San Miguel na malamig. The food was cheap and very tasteful. I ordered another bottle of beer before we leaved. A girl of the staff sopped a taxi for us and helped us to load our luggage into the Toyota Corolla. Many filipinos were watching us while we were eating and later most of them said friendly goodby to us. I think we had made an impression on our way to share our rest with them, even we had not need to eat at a poor place what it was. After a short shower and a nap in the Golden Valley Inn we went out for some nightlife experiences. At first we have visited the best go-go-bare "Firehouse" in Cebu City, but wanted to look for another palce, because the atmosphere was not that funny exciting we had expected. Jenny told me she would like to dance. So I asked the taxi driver after all discos he knows because I did not want to end up at club circus again. Luckily he was able to remember two discos, club circus included. Probably this new place i did not know would feed his meter with the most miles. I remember a girl from Cebu which told me some years ago that all in all four discos were located in town. I remember not much about that place, but they had some kind of fluorescent color-party which means that everybody could buy some flexible sticks shining in fluorescent colors to find each other in the very dark hall. They had a lot of fun by wearing this sticks as bracelet or necklace and at our arrival everything was sold out. We had a little dispute that night, but I can not remember why, so I guess Jenny was tiered from the trip and tend to get jealous again and I had one beer to much. On the next morning we were happy to have us to hug and love each other. We set off to the port getting the ferry to Ormoc on the island Leyte. The bad news was, that we were arriving to early at the terminal and had to wait more than two hours before we could boarding. We tried to slep holding each other on a small line of seats, but it did not really works. Bored I strolled around and stopped in front of a stand of Dunkin' Dounut's. I never have tried a Dounut before and thought this would be the right time to tast it, even it seems that only american policeman really like it.

The ferry to Ormoc was very comfortable and the ticket could cost around P300,- to P400,- but I am a little bit in the dark about the exact price. In Ormoc we got into a Van for P150,- going to Tacloban. The driver and his friend were some real rogue so be aware that your appearance is always very self-confident. I started to get angry as he brought every passenger not only in his village but also to his house and wanted me to pay an additional fee to bring me to the bus-terminal in Tacloban. Now this was Jennys part to tell him what kind of nasty guy he was and it worked. At the bus-terminal I asked some people where I could buy some beers, but they did not like to help me and the whole atmosphere was a little bit unpleasant as there were a lot of busses from Mindanao and I was wearing a US-air force-vest. I was happy when the bus started to leave to Calbayog. I guess we reached Calbayog City around 6.00 PM. This time I wanted to check out a different hotel, because I know Eduardo's already and thought I could save some money, because there is no working ATM and your VISA-card will nowhere accepted. The only way to get current cash is to change some US-Dollars. Now comes a story sounding a little bit after a bad novel written by a housewife, but I swear that this is really the truth. There is only one hotel in town which has a restaurant in the second floor in which we wanted to put up. After I got out of the trike a police officer came over from the police station on the other site of the street. He was obvious totally drunk and dragged an M-16 army rifle holding on its barrel. If I would see this in my own country I would disarming him, but I was in the RP. He told me I would be very save here and if I would have any trouble i should come to the police-station just right over the street, but this was not the problem. It follows thousands of questions and it seems he never want to stop it. I am really not a very patient person, but if I meet a drunk guy with an M-16 army rifle I try to be friently like a salesman for insurance policies. I gave Jenny a sign if she could take on the unpleasant conversation. Jenny started to talk with him and I could inspect our room.

On the next day we visited the market in Calbayog to buy some foods. I was really sure that the cooking skills of Jennys father would give us more tastful food than the restaurants in town. The meal I had the eve before made me not really curious to look for other restaurants. Jenny was very excited and felt a lot of pressure, because she did not want to forget any thing. So she got a little bit angry about me, because I was permanent taking pictures instead of helping her with all the things. I think the market of a town like Calbayog is one of the most interesting places to picture it. After we had everything we needed I was looking for a trike bringing us in Jennys Barangay. Obvious Jenny acquired the incontestable cans of cold beer befor we cold leave the market. We decided to take a Jeepney at the terminal. The journey to Jennys house lasted 45 minutes. I was happily greeted by the whole family and immeddiately we started to prepare the foods. This was the first time that I became a witness of the making of Kinelao. I am not sure about the correct way of writing but you wil understand what Kinelao is. It is made from very small, disemboweled translucent fishes and vegetables. The fishes were putted in the sap of a palm tree. This is the way to "cook" them like we pickle a herring. There is no fire or hot water needed. After some minutes in the sap the fishes look like boiled, even they are not heated up in any way. The sap is the same stuff needed to get drunk in the jungle. Yes, they made TUBA from it ,a sort of palm-wine. To make it perfect you should put a lot of chilli on it. Jenneys father used to made an very excellent Chicken Adobo too. His secret is to put a little bit sugar in the sauce. What for an excellent meal we had by this fantastic cook. In the evening we had a lot of visitors on the little terrace. Someone brought a guitar and a lot of songs were singing as the sun bebun to go down. They examined my cuts in the right knee and explained, that this was only happened to me, because I did not buy a souvenir in Apo Island. Someone showed me his hand that lacks two fingers. He tried to chop off a cokonut from a palm-tree, but instead of the coconut he cut off his fingers. Everybody started laughing in view of my little cuts compared with the two black stumps one the hand of the awkwart coconut-killer.

This time I have spent two nights in Jenny's simple house. The problem was to have a shower, because there was no bathroom only an outdoor toilet, but we found a way to have a shower. There was a stream in the Jungle and we were following its river bed as some big black hornets attacks us. This time I had more luck, because I was running away and got no stings, but Jenny got two. This Insects are horrible big in comparison with the Europeans. I was really proud of Jenny that she put up with the two stings very brave. Our luck was that there were all in all only 10 of this monster-hornets starting to build there nest on a branch hanging over the river bed. This hornets were so aggressive that we had to kill them all. After a while of walking down the river we came to the drinking water-supply-pipeline of the village. I saw that a splinter of bamboo sticks in the pipeline, so that no drop got lost until we opened it for our shower. This was a man-made leak in the pipiline, but I guess not for showering. I think the picture give you an example of the beautiful nature and all the fun we had.

I remember one night were they had a little outdoor-party in the next Barangay, were we had a lot of fun. Our way through the jungle with all this odd noise was incredible interesting. I am not sure if I had tell you before, that I am not a passionate dancer, rather a sourpuss concerning any dancing activities, but this night I was dancing and everybody were amusing about me. Back from the party I was a lttle bit scared about a big spider sitting on the support structure of the roof. A day before I saw the same spider with a big cocoon, but it looks lifeless. I had asked Jenny what kind of dead spider would be sitting in the roof. She had answered that the spider is not dead but still alive. Jenny had grabbed a broom and touched with that the spider until it was running away. Ugh, it was horrible to watch ! This night I would not slep in the house together with such a spider and I made a deal with the four years old brother of Jenny. All brothers where armed with selfmade catapults also the four years old brother. Sorry that I did not remember his name, but there are som many of them. Our deal was if he could shot the spider I would give him P100,- for this job. He agreed and I lifted him into the roof. Immediately little brother shot the spider dead and I put him down. I opened my wallet and gave him P100,-. That all lasted a minute and happened without saying a word. The day after, I saw him playing with his neihbor friends. He opened his wallet ( someone must gave him an old wallet ) and presented very proud his 100,- Peso banknote what was the only money inside.

There are only three or two flights per week to Manila from Calbayog and the only payment they will agree is cash. I had palnned another three last days in Sabang, but the flight-schedule did not care about my plans. There was only one alternative in my mind to avoid a longer stay in Manila. So we decided to explore the wreck-diving in the Subic Bay for our last days, but the threatening end of this trip and all the ache of the parting from Jenny and her beautiful country were already exhorting us. Jenneys parents brought us to the Calbayog airport where I was intensive frisked by the officials in lack of a screening machine. Back in Manila we took a bus to Olongapo and from there a trike to the Subic Bay.

Our hotel was Bart's Guest House. The rooms at Bart's are big with TV, aircon and refrigerator, costs around P1000,- per night. The staff is friendly and it is cosy to sit on the bar near to the front desk watching on the street. You can also go to the beach through the back-door even the beach is not really good. The sand is not really white and not much palm trees are line it. The nightlife is not that much you will find in Sabang, but the Midnight Rambler is at the next door. It is a nice pub with a half dozend billiard tables and some good rock music. I think this place will attract people working in Manila for the weekend. There is a diving base near the Zanzibar Hotel. You have to walk through a beach restaurant. After the first night I took a trike to visited the diving base, just P15,-. This diving base is a smaller one lead by a Belgian and his Filipina wife. The atmosphere is very friendly and relaxing as a cup of coffee or a bottle of beer will be always included. There have some boards with very impressive and detailed sketches from every wreck in the Subic Bay. You can see how the ship lies on the ground with all regular openings and where the torpedo hits the hull or where it bursted. They have documentaries with the complete history of every ship. I decided to dive on the two most famous and biggest wrecks there. The first wreck with the name "LST" was more famous than big, because it took part on the invasion in France at D-day during the Second World War. It lies upright on the sea bottom in a deep of 30 to 38 meters with closed bow-flaps. Through the loading openings for the vehicles on the deck we dove inside. The whole ship is empty but it looks great how the light fall in from the openings in the deck. It feels if you would swim through a cathedral. This ship was a transporter for troops and vehicles in the last world war. The ship sunk because of a torpedo-hit occurred one week after it was sold by the US-Navy to the Philippines.

The second dive we undertook to explore the big battleship "USS New York" This was an easy dive because the wreck is situated to the side in not very deep water. The visibility was bad and could be worst, because there is no current in this Bay to blow the plankton away. I guess you will have always a bad view there even I was there only one day. If you are lucky you will find the big grouper around the rear or you could see a school of baracudas. The crow nest and the gun-towers are still in a good shape. If the visibility would be much better it could be a great dive spot, but as I was there it was annoying to follow always the yellow fins of my dive-buddy. This ship was made sunk by the Americans themselves, because they would not leave it to the hands of the Japanese enemy. The Japanese invaders were coming such fast, that the Americans had no chance to bring the USS New York to a save anchorage. They manoeuvred their ship to the harbour entrance and made it sunk to block the port for Japanes ships. I was not sure to dive on the next day or not. So I left my diving gear there. Back in the hotel I invited Jenny for lunch. I was really hungry after this tiring day. My knee looked bad. It was very suppurating. We waited on the bar for our food as some guys were entering the lobby to sit down in the opposite of us. One guy was wearing a shirt with the inscription "It is hard to be a dick". Under this line a funny and indecent sketch was printed to explain the slogan. He brought also a large collection of xxx-magazine along with him. After a while he asked me if I would have the same fun like he had and I said: yes. I thought this funny man must be the living stereotyped idea of a sex-tourist that everybody will detest who has no fun in his own life. For me, I am a funny man too and I really had to laughed about his frank way to show about what all men have in their minds at any time. We had to wait long for our food and I had got a fever during this time. I told Jenny, that I wanted to go sleep because of my high temperature. I felt really bad and slept for almost 20 hours. After that I went to the diving base to get my equipment and for the payment. Now we had to leave to Manila for our last night in paradise and I knew that I was on the way back to the reality (to cold-hearted people in a colorless country). The last night we spent in the Appartment-hotel beside the Heritage hotel where the happiest 4 weeks of my lifetime had been started 4 weeks ago. As we were driving to the airport I felt how a victim of the expulsion from the paradise. Rene was already waiting at the airport and helped me with the formalities. The first what he said was that he would be married now with his Filipina girlfriend. Let me say that he must spend the whole four weeks to get all his needed papers from the government. He told me incredible stories how this procedure works. What for a shity vacation he must have had. Hi Hi Hi I wanted to get drunk suddenly. We had a lot of time to get drunk on our flight back home as we had a 10 hour interruption in Taipai. The hand-luggage was loaded with a large number of bottles with Tanduay Rum and we had a lot of stuff to tell about, because we had not seen each other for four weeks. We would not be what we are if we would cry on our way back. I tell you man we were as drunk as hell and made the staff of the airport- restaurant confused with our orders. Did you can imagine that they had not any meal with rice in the middle of Asia. God damn I hate this nuddles......